“Traveling through Europe during the COVID-19 outbreak.”

Salzburg, Austria, 2020.

Little did I know, when I was booking my holidays for this March, how things would have turned out across Europe. 

During the past months, I was informed that my father had been diagnosed with Alzheimer’s disease, so I after an agreement with my sister I arranged back in November to travel to Greece and sort a few issues that arose from this development.

I like to book my trips as early as possible and since a week in Greece would not exactly be holiday time, on my return I opted to visit Salzburg in Austria for two days, to clear my head from the overload of responsibilities I had to arrange.

But as the time for my trip was approaching, things across Europe have been dramatically changing. By March the 7^th and my flight to Thessaloniki from Dublin, via Gatwick airport in the United Kingdom, Italy was going on lock-down as the death toll from COVID-19 was rising.

There was not for one moment an option for me to cancel my trip to Greece, as the family matters were quite pressing. However, I was getting really stressed about flying through so many borders, so on my last day at work I had a discussion with my manage, about all options available, should I become stranded in Greece or elsewhere in Europe.

Just the previous week, Greece had its first corona virus case in my hometown of Thessaloniki, but by the 7^th of March, more cases have been reported. Ireland also had its first case and people started getting worried.

I got myself a few masks and boarded my flight. On my way down to Greece, there was no obvious panic, especially in Dublin and Gatwick airports. Both countries had still to adopt any precautionary measures and things were quite normal. Only a handful of people wore face masks and all retail shops in those airports were open.

During my stay in Greece, it got to a point that I had to stop listening to the news. Apart from the stress on learning about my father’s condition and all the options we could be faced after his inevitable passing, each day I was bombarded by new cases and deaths soaring across Europe.

One country after another started announcing lock-downs, like Poland, Spain, the Czech Republic, Denmark, Sweden and many more. I then started really to get worried about my Austrian break and the possibility of me becoming stranded there was real.

  

On Friday the 13^th me and my siblings, together with my partner, decided to rent a car and travel in nearby cities in Greece to get away from all the doom and gloom. But it was not to last. We had a great time together, yet by the time we had to return home, I got two calls that interrupted the evening.

People in Greece, although the government had placed partial lock-down and most cafes, restaurants and bars were closed, were still out and about for walks as the days were bright and the temperature at 20-21 degrees. The spirits were up and the mood positive.

However I soon had to deal the fact that I was flying to Salzburg on Sunday and in one of the two calls I received on Friday, the hotel I have booked my two nights accommodation informed me that it was closing down due to the outbreak. The Austrian government decided to proceed with a lock-down, so all hotels, shops, bars, restaurants and cafes were to be closed.

In a second call, my manager informed me that things in Ireland turned for the worse, so he advised me to seek medical advice by my GP, before I return to work. The thing was, I was returning in Ireland on the 17^th of March and the St. Patrick’s Day bank holiday. Thus, although the famous parade had been long cancelled, it was doubtful if I could find a doctor available.

At my sister’s home I started weighing my options. I thought to cancel my trip to Austria but as country after country was announcing lock down measures, I was equally afraid to risk it. Flights were being cancelled, airplanes grounded, and it was a real mess. Most alternatives were too pricey or not available on the dates I was seeking.

So, I took a leap of faith and maintained my schedule, however I still needed to find an alternative accommodation. Searching through various websites, very few hotels were still open and those who advertised room still, could also cancel by Sunday. I decided to book a room-to-let in the center of Salzburg and hope for the best.

On Saturday my head was buzzing, and my mind was troubled by all this. What upset me the most, was the constant bad news, the increasing measures and death toll together with doomsday and frantic reporting and misreporting by the media.

For example Austria had closed its borders with Italy and Switzerland, but not to any other countries, yet in various media websites they listed the country as in a complete lock-down situation, something that was valid only for its region of Tirol, close to the Italian border.

At least the weather in Greece was still great and people were going for walks in the promenade under the sunshine, despite the Greek government’s warnings. A risky behavior, however, a much-needed walk under some good weather uplifted my spirits.

  

Salzburg, Austria, March 2020.

On Sunday I arrived at the airport and everything looked normal, however after passing through the security checks and a just before boarding, Turkish Airlines cancelled the flight to Istanbul, therefor my trip to Salzburg from there was doomed.

I ended up having to reschedule anyway, but this time fast. What made the whole procedure more stressful, were the dubious rumors among other fellow travelers about the situation. Some claimed that this was a result of the weather, others of the tension between the Greek and Turkish borders, some were saying that Greece is going into a lock-down and all flights will be cancelled. A complete and utter chaos.

When I managed to speak to an airline representative, she managed to find me alternative flights with Aegean Airlines and Lufthansa via Frankfurt to Salzburg. I quickly accepted any offer, as I was panicking at that stage that I would be left in Greece in a lock-down and not be able to fly out of the country as of next day, as many travelers were circulating.

That of course was another false rumor, as Greece proceeded with such measures a week later. Meanwhile I enjoyed a business class trip from Thessaloniki to Frankfurt and I arrived late in Salzburg on the same day. Partially I was glad I was out of Greece, but really worried of the prospect being stuck in Austria.

I got to my room, yet as my hosts were observing the lock-down by letter, nobody was there to greet me or advise me. They left instructions of how to get access to the room, in a beautiful 600-year-old building in the historic center, by text. I had paid for the room online, so technically they needed not be there. In fact, I never met them. They left maps of the city and books for their guests to read on a chest drawer, so that was most welcomed.

The next morning, I awoke in a city in an absolute lock-down. Nothing was open apart from one tobacco and tourist gift shop, plus a few boulangeries, selling sandwiches, pastries, pies and bread rolls to go. The city felt deserted, although the weather was excellent. There were numerous patrols by the police, checking people and their business as they were driving by.

Not that there were many who braved to be walking in town. Few and mostly tourists like me, some older people walking their dogs or trying to get to a pharmacy, with few younger professionals still out. People were avoiding each other, almost with a look of guilt, fear, surprise or suspicion, keeping the government advice or “social distancing” at two meters.

Queues outside the few pharmacies still open were also kept with as much distance from each other, and the beautiful old city of Salzburg looked as if hit by a plague. So empty and quiet, with all shops and major attractions such as the city’s castle, closed. Still amazing though, under the spring sun. 

I have spent a full day walking through the old town, up and down the castle road, the river Salzach and beyond, while taking photographs. Finding something to eat was a challenge. I had to find the few supermarkets that were open in the old town, carefully tucked away in old historic buildings, camouflaging themselves as if not to disturb the medieval baroque essence of Salzburg.

Sandwiches and chocolates kept me going through the day, but by nightfall I was starving. I went out looking for food, but nothing was open at that time, not even a tobacco shop. Luckily, I observed some take away delivery guys on bicycles.

I kept one of the brands in my mind and returned to my room to order online. Chinese dinner it was that night. The delivery man, just left the package outside my door and rang my bell, not even waiting for me to come down and hand deliver it. He waited from a short distance to check if I had got my delivery, before he wished me good night while cycling away.

The next day, I woke up again, packed, had a shower and left my room at 9:30 in the morning. My flight was at two, but I wished to walk about and take a few more pictures of this beautiful city, as I was exploring the other side of the river. I also wanted to leave early for the airport, as I had no clue if there were still any taxes or buses to take me there or if in fact my flight would still happen.

Some locals at one of the shops I bought a few snacks warned me that as of tomorrow, Wednesday the 18^th, Austria would go in complete lock-down, banning all flights from or to the country. I felt so lucky and positive at that stage. As if they were waiting for me to leave. Here I was the last day that the country kept its airports open, trying to find a way to leave.

They also explained to me, why the police were patrolling. From the previous day, Austria introduced a fine for everyone walking out in larger numbers, unless they were family or living together. That would explain the suspicious looks and distance kept by locals, except for a few “servus” I got, from a couple of polite, mumbling locals.

Around past 11:00 I managed to find a taxi waiting by the river. Without any hesitation I approached it and after asking the driver if he was free, I got in. He was an older man, slightly sick and he was coughing. I could not help it but becoming worried and the ride to the airport became a bit long; I just wanted to arrive at the airport as soon as possible.

Salzburg, Austria, 2020.

During this short trip though, as I kept my face towards the window to avoid any floating germs (yes, I got that paranoid after all this constant cautioning from the media), I really enjoyed the Salzburg suburbia and surrounding mountain views.

I arrived at an empty airport that seem abandoned. After wiping my hands with disinfecting gel, I went straight to the security checks. I was too early and very few people were also waiting, for the last flight out of that airport, to London Gatwick.

Again, rumors were circulating among other travelers, of the possibility of the flight being cancelled and all of us becoming stranded in Austria. This time, I chose not to listen. I had a positive vibe, that all would go well. As the time passed, more travelers to London arrived and the flight was on-time.

From there my trip to Dublin was swift and easy. London had still to put any precautions at its airports, with all restaurants and shops still open, contrary to Salzburg that the only bar-restaurant and duty-free shop were closed. 

However, I still got a call from my partner, saying that Ireland introduced a 14-day quarantine from everyone, arriving from everywhere outside the country, since Sunday. He had to self-isolate and that meant that so should I.

The confirmation came later by text by one of my colleagues and manager. I arrived in Dublin and saw a slightly different picture than that in Austria. Cafes and fast-food outlets, tourist shops and some hotels even where still open.

They remained so until the end of the week, when the country tightened its COVID-19 response strategy. It remains to be seen if it was wise, or they should have followed Austria and Greece sooner.

So here I am, 6 days into quarantine, still healthy but home, writing this article. I do not know what tomorrow will bring, or how long this situation will last.

But if I had to take one lesson from all this experience, is not to panic ever. Stay focused and deal with each situation. Do not watch the news often or read articles on social media platforms. Follow the guidelines, but not suspend your lives, stay active and healthy.

Try not to listen to rumors circulating by others on social media or in your circles. No one has ever done this before; things change by the day and they may not be as bad as people make them to be. Stay informed, positive and aware and we will get through this.

“Greece at breaking point; a test for European unity.”

The European and Greek leadership have flown over the Greek-Turkish border on March the 3^rd and the river Evros, to review the dire situation that has developed there, since the previous weekend.

The Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan decided to allow-if not accommodate, tens of thousands or migrants to reach Turkey’s borders with Greece. He had initially a multi-billion euro deal with the EU since 2016, in order to maintain refugee camps in his country.

That deal has now expired or annulled according to some by Erdogan, but Europe draped in its internal problems after Brexit, was slow to renew and reassure the Turkish government of its support and intentions.

Turkey is home to around 4 million refugees, most of them from Syria, but also from South Asia, Africa and the Middle East. However, with the involvement of Turkey in the Syrian conflict and the recent loss of 33 of their soldiers, the country’s leadership became agitated and desperate in in the lack of progress of their goals in the region.

They want to push back and create a buffer zone within Syria in order to resettle the refugees there, however by doing so they are entering a war zone, in which Russia and other regional powers are also involved.

In other words, due to Turkish internal issues on migration, the war in Syria and the increasing regional instability, Mr Erdogan decided to blackmail Europe by using the refugees. As result, those thousands or even millions of desperate people, have become once again useful victims of someone else’s interests.

Greece on the other hand has its own very problems. The country is only recovering from a decade long economic crisis, in addition to being for the same length of time, one of the main entry points of refugees.

In 2019 only, Greece has accepted 60,000 migrants from Turkey and is currently processing 125,000 refugee applications. It has announced that for the time being, it won’t be accepting further applications, despite condemnation from UNHCR. There are around 42,000 refugees stranded on the islands of Lesvos, Chios and Samos, around a quarter of the region’s population. 

In other words, the islands have become “human dustbins,” as many have put it. The migrants are becoming increasingly desperate and often aggressive towards the locals, but mainly to each other. Criminality in the camps is high, but also desperation and human deprivation.

There have been numerous condemnations by various NGOs on how Greece is handling the situation and partially they are right. Perhaps Greece should have allocated quicker the migrants into the mainland, but then it would replacing Turkey as a refugee ghetto. But how about the rest of Europe?

Germany has announced that it won’t be accepting any more refugee applications, after they allowed almost 1 million people into their country. Some other countries from central and eastern Europe are refusing to take migrants in, in fear or eroding their European heritage and Christendom.

Britain decided to jump the ship and control its own borders. In the rest of Europe governments are struggling to keep the far-right at bay, so the threat of millions of new migrants entering the continent will make it even harder to maintain a centrist, pro-European ruling elite in our continent.

So, Greece and Turkey are forced to deal the problem by themselves, with mainly European handouts as a help. No wonder the situation between them reached a turning point. The crisis has spread to their mainland border and the river Evros.

After Erdogan’s announcement, nearly 15,000 migrants attempted to enter Greece, assisted by Turkish officials who often, as reports from Greece have it, were driving them into the border and assisting them. According to Turkish interior minister Suleyman Soylu, another 76,000 are on the way.

Greece pushed back by firing teargases towards the refugees, while Turkish agents were allegedly cutting the barbed wires to create openings for them to cross into Greece. There have been numerous sightings of Turkish boats assisting the crossing of refugees into the Greek isles, prompting the Greek PM Kyriakos Mitsotakis to openly refer to the state of Turkey as “smuggler”, during his address to the EU leadership.

The Greek islanders who in 2015 were overwhelmingly welcoming towards the migrants, they are now exhausted by the situation. Many videos emerged, showing a very different attitude towards the new arrivals, by calling them names and asking them to “go back” and push away their boats.

In addition, there have been riots on the islands by locals, trying to prevent the Greek government to build new refugee centers there. During these riots, there has been a great amount of violence by both sides, the islanders and the Greek police.

  

The climate in Greece is that of fear, desperation, anger and anxiety. The government is sending troops and reinforces towards the borders, where is staging military exercises. It is also ready to call upon its army reserves, if in need to handle the situation.

The press is not making the situation any easier. There is a lot of propaganda in all sides, trying to win the hearts of the public, or spread fear and misinformation among them. Turkish media portray Greece or Europe as the problem. Many journalists in Greece are portraying the situation as an attempt of Turkey to “destroy Greece”, inciting the old nationalist animosity between the two countries.

Others that are more empathetic towards the migrants, and especially those affiliated to various NGOs, are portraying the locals who object to the new migrant centers as “racists” or “nationalists”, conveniently turning a blind eye to the dire, unworkable situation in the region. They of course are trying to help the refugees and the human cause behind this tragedy, but who will ever understand the needs of the locals, both from Greece and Turkey?

For someone living in the north or western part of Europe, all this is just a story in the news, miles away from their residence. If only they tried to live with this reality for 5 years, they could relate. Especially when any judgement comes from the press in Europe, a continent that is repeatedly is refusing to listen to its people.

The rise of the far-right across Europe is either we like it or not a clear sign, a wake-up call, that a large number of its population is increasingly rejecting the arrival of great numbers of immigrants. However, Europe caught up in its own dogma, complexes and guilt by its own past, is trying too hard to prove itself as a beacon of human rights, as it should.

Yet that can never be achieved if it does not have the support of its own people. This is a dangerous weakness, that is being exploited by thirds parties, like Turkey. In order to achieve their goals and either force Europe to pay up or support the Turkish cause in Syria against perhaps that of Russia, Erdogan is clearly blackmailing the European leadership.

And the Turks are not the only ones. The refugee crisis is not a Turkish, or a Greek, nor a European problem, it is a world problem. Europe has promised Turkey 6 billion euro in order to encourage the Turks to “swallow the pill” and take the burden of the situation.

Now they are offering Greece 700 million euro, most likely to do the same. Yet, Europe lacks the leadership to convince other rich nations and blocks such as the USA, Canada, Japan, Russia, China, Australia, Israel, South Korea, the Arab League, UAE, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and many countries that got involved in this conflict or have assisted US and NATO operations in the region previously, to also take responsibility. 

They are conveniently turning a blind eye and leave Europe to deal with this mess. Thus, the refugee crisis became a European headache that could spell, if not treated immediately, the end of the EU as we know it. We could rest assured that many that want this to happen are seeing to this.

If European leadership had already agreed to a common defense mechanism and a more effective Frontex, the situation on the Greek but also the Bulgarian borders, which are European ones, would not be as desperate. They could help defend and secure them, but above all reassure the public that Europe is doing something about it and is there for them.

In addition, if they could all agree in spreading the refugees equally among them, or establish a common immigration policy to encourage seasonal, legal immigration into Europe, we could potentially have avoided all this. But sadly, European leaders prefer to squabble, to our competitors’ delight.

« Europe’s population decline, demands bold yet collective solutions. »

Greece is the latest European country, that is trying to tackle its ageing and declining population. The new conservative government of the New Democracy party announced that from the start of 2020, it would pay each mother the amount of 2000 euros per new-born child.

The Balkan country’s population is one of the fastest declining in the EU, a trend that has been made worse since the economic crisis. Many of its young people decided either to migrate, or simply they do not have the means to raise a family.

It is estimated that currently there are around 10.4 million people in Greece, down already from the just over 11 million a decade ago and it is projected by some experts to be reduced even further, down to 8 million people in the coming decades.

In addition, the population is not only declining, but it follows the continental trend of ageing. Fewer young people mean less workers and thus taxpayers needed to support the increasing number of pensioners. As result, not only there aren’t enough people to maintain a stable population, but the economy is also being placed under a huge strain.

Greece is not the sole country in Europe that resulted in such measures. Hungary has also previously granted tax exemptions for couples with 4 or more children, together with many other benefits and subsidies.

The central European country’s Prime Minister, Victor Orban, hailed this move as “the Hungarian way,” even though many in the continent condemning such solution of being similar to that of a communist regime.

Despite this, Mr Orban has exploited the immigration and population question in the European elections of May 2019. He cited that Western Europe under pressure by the EU leadership, has accepted immigration as the solution to the continent’s population decline.

According to him, the EU wants to fill Europe with immigrants, primarily Muslim and this will be the “gravedigger of nations, family and the Christian way of life”. His government has repeatedly broke lines with its European partners when dealing with the refugee crisis and is overall very cautious towards immigration from outside of Europe. 

Yet, the only EU countries that saw a healthy population growth during the previous decade, were countries that accepted immigrants both from within and outside the EU. Ireland, Sweden and Malta, are among those.

The opposite trend is observed in central and eastern Europe, where Bulgaria, Croatia, Latvia and Lithuania are experiencing rapid population decline, due not to only falling birth rates, but just like in the case of Greece, emigration.

Since it joined the EU, Latvia-a tiny Baltic nation, lost about 18.2% of its population, to shrink to just below 2 million people. The main problem it is facing, is the emigration of its youth, in order to find jobs and get higher wages in countries like the UK, Ireland and Germany.

If this trend continues, Latvia will sadly live by its reputation, as Europe’s “disappearing nation.” But this problem is not only confined in this country. The EU’s expansion to the east, exposed the continent’s huge income inequalities and opportunities for employment and growth, with a gaping East-West divide.

It is only natural that young people would seek to get higher paid jobs in rich western nations, however this reality should not become permanent. Both the governments of the new members and the EU itself should address the issue and encourage harmonization or salaries and living standards, in order to encourage the emigres, return home and of course prevent the perpetuating of the issue.

Another factor is that the new EU states, are reluctant to allow or unable to attract a great number of non-EU immigrants. Nevertheless, if we accept that immigration into Europe could work when tackling our continent’s demographic problem, it itself brings some certain challenges. We are currently experiencing a sharp rise of xenophobia and populism, fronted by right-wing political parties that seem to gain ground everywhere in Europe.

If we only chose to balance the falling numbers of our population with immigrants, we risk making this problem worse and in addition, risking the very existence of the EU, our open borders and the rights of both native and foreign-born population.

It would be unwise continuing in this course, unless we are able to tackle populism and the far-right first, but that will require getting our economies in order. And that is because, it is essential when dealing with such issues, to have a healthy, stable economy. When people are happy with their living standards, it is harder for populists to find fertile ground for their propaganda.

  

Plus, to conduct reforms, you need good finances. We will have to look at Sweden, a country that to a certain extent, has successfully dealt with this issue. The Scandinavian nation has managed thanks to its economy, to support a different approach to its demographic problem.

With a greatly subsidized, always-available day-care, generous parental leave shared by both parents it is among the EU nations with a population growth, with immigration playing additionally some part.

Sweden’s success though requires not just robust finances, but also a radical review in gender roles, societal mentality towards childcare and family and a willingness of employers to accommodate such reforms in employment.

To conclude, it is evident that Europe needs to tackle its demographic problem. If it doesn’t, its economy, stability and influence in the globe will suffer, and it will deprive itself of its current status of one of the most affluent regions on earth.

Young generations are the best investment in order to secure a more prosperous future, despite the fact the human global population should ideally shrink. We have surpassed the 7 billion earth human inhabitants mark, so a global population decline is not something that we should fear, but welcome.

However, we will have to manage better this new reality, if we wish to avoid a population collapse in Europe, with all the societal and economic consequences. We have achieved to live in a prosperous continent, with a consumerist and individualistic lifestyle, fueled by capitalism and a market-based economy.

That is not a bad thing, if we are able to balance better our work-family lives and set our priorities right. Thus, the solution to Europe’s demographic problem, does not lie in one panacea, rather a collective response by all governments, a pan-European cooperation and coordination.

Together with altering our family role-models or our work conditions like Sweden, we will have to help young couples and encourage them, should they wish to start a family by all means possible.

Either it is tax relief like in Hungary, or a child bonus in Greece, combined with inward immigration and harmonization of wages and living standards across the EU, we can avoid depopulation of some of its regions. Resulting consequently, in a healthier and sustainable European population and ultimately economy and future.

“My first trip to Europe that defines me still today.”

Freiburg, Germany, 1998.

I have always had the traveling bug, that innate need to explore and get to know other cultures and nations. And I was so lucky to be born in one of the most affluent regions of earth, which allowed me to satisfy this need for freedom: Europe.

I grew up in Greece, in a working-class family from the country’s second largest city, Thessaloniki. My parents separated when I was entering adolescence and for many years I was lost, I did not know what I wanted to do in life.

After my father’s suggestion, I decided to follow a career in Greece’s booming tourism industry, although I was never too keen in working with people. However, working in a hotel, no matter how demanding, gave me the opportunity to encounter tourists from all over the world, but primarily Europe.

That soon proved to be a life-changing experience. From an introvert I became an extrovert and acquired a thirst for knowing people, the hotel’s guests, which I often befriended. With some I still have a connection and I call friends, 22 years later.

It was a group of young Austrians, which I met while working at the restaurant of a hotel in Potidea in Greece, who first suggested that I should visit them for Christmas. We were hanging out after work and became friends during the two weeks of their stay.

Soon after their departure, I met a group of Germans from Feucht, near Nuernberg and after them many others from their homeland. With some we became very close and they also invited me over for Christmas. While in the beginning I took those invitations somewhat lightly, after I finished working in the hotel, I begun seriously considering it.

I was in contact with quite a few people from the previous summer season and many have reinstated their invitation. I announced to my family at the age of 20, that I won’t be spending Christmas and New Year’s Eve with them, for the first time.

Initially they tried to prevent me, and they warned me that “foreigners” are not as hospitable as us-the Greeks, so that they would not host me. They were naturally believing all the stereotypes about Germans and other Europeans, plus they could not believe that people that met only for two weeks in a summer resort, could become close friends. 

They did not stop me, however. After I booked my flights and arranged my itinerary, I contacted my hosts to discuss which dates would suit for my visit. My family on the other hand, tried to provide me with Greek contacts in Germany, in case those “cold and inhospitable” Germans refuse me.

I flew over to Cologne on my own, two days before Christmas, first time on a plane and outside the borders of Greece. The year was 1997, 5 years after Europe signed the Maastricht Treaty and 2 years after the Schengen Agreement’s supplement, the Schengen Convention, came into force, with a complete abolition of systematic internal border controls.

Freiburg, Germany, 1998.

I landed in Cologne at around 10 o’clock in the night and suddenly I found myself alone in a foreign country, with basic knowledge of German. There were no visa requirements, no long queues and no stops at customs. I swiftly got out of the massive airport and started panicking.

I had to reach Wuppertal, a small city close to Cologne, where my first guests were living. But I had no idea of how to get there. After a brief cold sweat spell, I gathered the courage to approach a German taxi driver and ask him to take me to the train station, in order to get the next train to my destination.

In broken English and a conversation half in German, with the addition of some sign language, I managed to understand that he offered to drive me directly to the doorstep of my hosts, for around 175 marks, a bit over of what a trip to Wuppertal would cost by train, together with the taxi fare to the station.

I agreed, as the time was getting late. Somewhere along the road the driver got lost and I started worrying again, this time about money. I was alone in a taxi at night-time, somewhere in Germany and the person who was driving was unsure of where we were.

He immediately stopped the taxi meter and reassured me that he would charge me the agreed price and that he would find the address of the house, to safely drop me off. And he did, even if he took him numerous stops at gas stations to ask for directions.

As soon as I rang the doorbell of my friends, I heard the voice of my parents in my head, warning me that they won’t answer the door and I should be prepared to find an alternative accommodation. But to prove them wrong, I was not only accepted, but had slippers on my feet, hot food and shower prepared for me.

After spending Christmas in Wuppertal, I took the train again for Nuernberg, to visit my friends in Feucht. I was far more confident by now and I was able to relax and enjoy the amazing German countryside, as I was traveling by its majestic rivers, old towns and castles. 

Glued to the wagon’s window, it was the first time that I saw ships on a river-the Rhine, plus the amazing forests of Bavaria. After an amazing stay in Feucht and a visit in Nuernberg, it was time to leave again and spend New Year’s Eve in Austria.

This time I took the train to Passau, a beautiful city on the German-Austrian border, in which my Austrian friends were awaiting to take me across the border to Schaerding, a small, picturesque baroque town. There were no border and no passport controls, we were just crossing the bridge over the Danube and there we were. Simply as that, I have reached Austria.

Schaerding, Austria, 1997.

We welcomed 1998 by drinking sparkling wine and watching the fireworks in Schaerding’s old town square. During the few days I have spent with my friends, my hosts also drove with me to Salzburg and the surrounding area. I have never seen such beautiful countryside and old towns, so clean, neat and tidy, unlike the ones I was used to back home.

So far, the trip was an eye-opener by any means. It boosted my confidence and made me fall in love with Europe and traveling, something that hasn’t left me ever since. In addition, it shattered all stereotypes I had about these two countries I have visited, and the often-unjustified rumors that circulated about them in Greece.

It also inspired me to have a different view about many things I accepted, tolerated or took for granted in my home country.

 My mind was broadening, and I was becoming cosmopolitan. But the trip was not over yet. After a few days in Austria, I took the train from Passau to reach Freiburg. It lies south-west, in the wine producing area of Germany, something that I was completely unaware prior to my visit.

I have never heard of German wines until then, let alone taste them. And not only that, but I was about to stay with people who worked in the local wine producing industry and have the privilege of drinking their wine.

Freiburg itself is an amazing city, yet my hosts were living a bit further in Breisach, a town right to the border with France. It was occupied by both French and the Germans over the centuries and changed hands numerous times.

Neuf-Brisach, France, 1998.

After it was taken back by Germany and briefly belonging to Austria, the French built their own town of Neuf-Brisach just over the river Rhine, opposite Breisach.

And thank God they did. Because during my stay in this region, not only I was able to taste German wines, which are fizzy, fruity and light, but also wake up each morning and drive across another bridge, just to buy French baguettes and “fromages” for our breakfast. 

Again, while we were crossing the bridge over Rhine, although the border posts were still standing, there were no checks or controls. I was able in one trip to visit three countries, spend my money in so many shops and towns and experience the best of what they had to offer.

After a stroll on the French side, we returned to Germany to continue our exploration. We traveled to Aschaffenburg, and old, picturesque, beautiful fortified town in Bavaria by the river Main. I have instantly fell in love with it and this became the last impression of that trip, as soon I had to take the night train back to Cologne, to catch a flight back to Thessaloniki.

But I did not return empty handed. My camera was full of pictures, my mind full of beautiful memories and my suitcase full of gifts. Not only I have bought many souvenirs for my family during my travels, but my hosts have given me presents to take back to them.

I was so proud to open my bags and offer my mother two bottles of German wine, some Austrian kiwi liquor, lots of chocolate, sweets and other hand-crafted Bavarian goods, which my friends have sent for her.

In that way, I had dispelled any stereotypes about the peoples of the countries I have visited, not only for myself but for my family too. I have experienced the benefits of a Europe with open borders and the opportunities that it offers for personal growth and development, something that we all often take for granted.

Freiburg, Germany, 1998.

I have acquired a new, different view of living and made some lifelong friends along the way. Six years later I have decided to leave Greece altogether and relocate permanently in Ireland. 

Yet I still travel at any chance I get across Europe. I have visited around 36 European nations, including all EU member states.

It is something that I always recommend youngsters to do, if they seek personal growth, lifelong experiences and lessons, plus making friends. 

Nothing changes you for the better like traveling and currently Europe is ideal for this.

Let’s keep it this way, let us maintain a continent with open borders, minds, hearts and doors to other fellow Europeans, but also others from across the globe.

“What next for Europe and the UK after Brexit?”

On the 31^st of January 2020, the United Kingdom has finally left the European Union. After three years, numerous debates, arguments, twists and turns, the Tory leadership of the country has managed to strike a deal with its European partners and come to an agreement within its own government.

This is the first time a country leaves the EU and it is of great significance, since it is one of the oldest members. However, the British leadership was never too keen on European integration. Euro-skepticism is nothing new in the UK and the country’s press was for decades habitually EU bashing, with little effort to counter their arguments by the government.

During the EU membership referendum, we have witnessed lots of propaganda and misinformation from the Leave campaign, but also an inability from the Remain side to present convincing arguments to persuade the British public.

They resulted on focusing mainly on Russian meddling, US takeover and numerous doomsday scenarios, for when the UK leaves the EU. The truth is, the country is one of the richest nations in the world and it can survive outside the EU, although surely weakened.

But it is sad that not just the British public, but Europeans all over the continent are failing to realize the uniqueness of the EU as a concept, but chose to fall for populists that bet in their greatest concern of all: their pockets.

All EU bashing is revolving around the most basic instincts of the European populace, their nationalistic sense of identity and their wealth. Money is the reason why many countries chose to stay outside the EU and why the UK decided to leave.

Money is also the reason why others chose to join or are keen to do so in the future. They want to access to the single market, yet once they enter the club, they often forget the obligations they have signed in order to be accepted in the EU.

Few in Europe yet, see the EU as those who worked to establish it in the past. It is the manifestation of an altruistic idea of a united Europe, which arose from the ashes of a continent, torn by war.

Those visionaries who have witnessed its madness and cruelty and lived through Europe’s most shameful pages in history, had as a goal, the unification of our continent. However, since the 80’s, only years after it joined, the UK started deviating from this vision. 

Soon after the “poison” of Euro-skepticism spilled over to other nations and how couldn’t it, since European politics became a fight over interests and money, among our national governments. But the EU as a project should not only a financial one. It is evident that if it is to succeed in the future, it needs the citizens’ support.

And that can only be accomplished, once they get to share the same vision as Europe’s forefathers, plus ideally, have their needs met, their pockets and living standards filled and raised. Other unions operate differently. They have a president, common language, religion and one of its representatives, or a monarch to unite their populace.

What does Europe have, since if we focus solely on wealth and money, we will inevitable fight over it. We need to start promoting our ideals, values and vision among all layers of our social structure, from the poorest to the richest, either that be nations or individuals.

I would be proud if Ireland or Greece ever became net contributors to the EU’s budget for example, because that would mean that they achieved to be considered among Europe’s richest nations, plus they can help others reach the same goal. And that would be an honor.

However, that transfer of wealth can only be monitored through a centralized governing body, just as it happens in other federal or confederal political structures, like the USA. Thus, we need the EU, even if it has itself problems with corruption, lobbying and red tape; we do not seek to dismantle our national governments or parliaments, because our politicians are corrupt, so why do we require this from the EU?  

Our generation hasn’t lived through destruction or war, so we take for granted the freedoms we enjoy. And it is sad to see our willingness to sacrifice them, in order to satisfy the will of the rich minority. Because those will be the ones who benefit the most from the disintegration of the EU, not the average citizens.

The British public was conned to believe that by exiting the EU, they would enjoy more wealth, save their NHS and they could manage the levels of immigration in their country. Straight after they “got back control,” their government announced that they are seeking to attract workers from all over the world, to fill job vacancies.

As for the NHS, it was never in a bad shape because of the EU, rather the mismanagement of the consequent British governments. It was plainly used as a carrot to lure the public and fall in the trap.

  

The country’s leadership simply wants to be free of EU regulation when conducting business, but not for the citizens’ benefit, rather for their own and those who finance their political careers and campaigns, such as the British and American business elites.

Therefore, we can see a very different UK from now on. Surely not a much poorer country, albeit a more unequal one, a tax haven that is competing with Europe in order to attract more businesses. The ordinary British people won’t see much difference in wealth “trickling down” from this shift, rather they plainly lost their EU citizenship and the rights that came with it.

Funnily enough, they haven’t realized that for one year until they finally agree on their future relationship with the EU, during the 2020 negotiations with the block, Britain will have to obey EU rules without having any say, as it lost its representatives.

And that is a far more serious loss of control and EU meddling, something that Norway- the model country for many Brexiteers- must deal with for decades now. But while Norway, a small Scandinavian nation can manage, how will this go down with Britain, a country with global leader aspirations?

In addition, even Norway is looking closely how Brexit will pan out for the Brits and perhaps rethink their position on EU membership. Their EEA (European Economic Area) Agreement will be affected if Britain ever tries to join or get a similar deal.

The EU as expected will play hardball during the negotiations with the UK, which may well be extended for years. It must really. If it allows the Brits out too easily, or with a very favorable agreement, then other member states might seek similar treatment and that will cast the EU’s doom as we know it. Perhaps that is what the UK bets on, however there is little appetite shown for compromise in other member states.

To conclude, the United Kingdom will be fine outside the EU, just as many other countries. Yet, why aren’t we collectively still convinced about our greatest accomplishment as a continent and chose to remain behind nationalist trenches?  As if our greatest enemy to our wealth is poorer European nations and their citizens.

Ultimately, if the UK ever decides to re-join, it won’t happen for another 10-20 years. When they do, they will have to join the euro and Schengen and that will be a much greater humiliation for the British leadership, but perhaps a much necessary one.

However, there is also the risk that the United Kingdom as a country won’t exist in its current form. With a potential departure of Scotland in order to be in the EU, comes that of Northern Ireland too, now that Sinn Fein has gained great support in last weekend’s election in the Republic. 

Leaving a very different country as potential new EU member state, Anglo-centric and potentially met with suspicion by all other member states. Unless, during their absence the EU manages to solidify its structures and become more unified, it is unlikely they will ever allow “little Britain” back in, with all its demands and opt-outs.

“Europe commemorates the Holocaust; however, it still forgets.”

On the 27th of January, Europe marked 75 years since the liberation of Auschwitz, a grim reminder of one of Europe’s darkest pages in history. 

It is a landmark that demands of us to remember, not out of shame as many see it, but as our duty to our future generations.

Naturally, the extermination of millions of people, not just from the Nazi’s but their collaborators across Europe for simply who they were, should make us feel ashamed. 

However, the purpose of such commemoration, should not focus on making us feel guilty or hate, rather it could be an opportunity to educate and learn to tolerate.

Because even after being exposed to numerous commemorations, documentaries, films and inspiring political speeches about the Holocaust, its causes and aftermath, Europe-although it has made huge progress- hasn’t managed to rid off old prejudices and nationalism entirely.

Even nowadays there is a reported sharp rise in Anti-Semitism across our continent, with Jewish cemeteries being vandalized in France, Germany and elsewhere, but even the UK’s Labour Party, being investigated of its alleged anti-Semitic views.

It is peculiar to think that after such catastrophe, that costed the lives of millions of people-not just the Jews of Europe- people would still see an ethnic group as responsible for all their troubles and problems. So much in fact that they would prefer to align themselves with outright criminal ideologies.

And it is even more worrying, that this hatred spreads to many other ethnic or religious minority groups of Europe. Our continent has become multinational, multi-religious and multiracial and that is a direct outcome of the Holocaust’s legacy.

People for many years have chosen to abandon hate, prejudice and preferred to include and tolerate individuals of different background, as result of the horrors of fascism, nationalism and populism they have experienced. The EU itself was created from the ashes and remains of the old Europe, with a promise that never again would Europeans die in such wars, fueled by hate.

However, our continent is still struggling with its identity and future. And it is not just the Jewish people that are being targeted this time. Islamophobia is also a worrying trend, in addition to the rising xenophobia and Euro-skepticism. Seventy-five years ago, it may have been the Jews of Europe that faced the brunt of our hate, however if we are not careful in the future it could be others.

  

In addition to commemorating the loss of nearly 6 million Jewish lives in the most horrid manner, we could also start telling the stories of others that perished in the same way. And even though the numbers were fewer, their deaths should not be forgotten in history.

With the European Jews, the Nazis exterminated a large part of Europe’s Romani people, homosexuals, Jehovah’s Witnesses, people with disabilities and their political opponents. According to some estimations, about 1.5 million Romani people have died alongside those of Jewish descent.

Some historians bring that number down to anywhere between 200,000 and 500,000, however the numbers should not be the only thing that we should be concerned, rather the reason and the manner.

Many of them died in concentration camps, while wearing a brown inverted triangle. Others were shot while fighting against the Nazis and alongside their compatriots. Many found a gruesome death, while Nazi scientists were conducting experiments on them, like pouring chemicals into their eyes to attempt a color change.

Yet while the Jewish Holocaust is greatly discussed and commemorated, the “Porajmos” or Romani Holocaust is still not being spoken about, or as extensively studied. There are no films or documentaries made about the suffering of the Roma people those days and even if the German government has officially recognized it since 1982, it has never paid any reparations to the Roma victims, like it did with the Jewish ones.

Perhaps that is one reason why the Romani victims are not portrayed in any Hollywood blockbuster movie, together with the fact that they do not have a strong lobby in America to promote their rights and even worse, not even in Europe-their birthplace.

Romani people are part of our continent for centuries. But even today, they are among the poorest of people, facing discrimination and lack of opportunities in all countries they reside on the European continent.

About 80% of the 12 million Roma in Europe today are living below the poverty line, while in average they live 10 years less than the average European with high infant mortality. Only one out of four Roma people are employed, while fewer than that have finished their education: 20% cannot read or write.

Perhaps if we started viewing them in a different manner, we could end this outrageous discrimination and maybe we could start by telling their stories during the Holocaust, to sensitize people about their rights and cause.

Another group that usually is left out of the commemorations are homosexuals. They do not get as much sympathy, as they are not an ethnic group and nowadays, they enjoy their rights and equality in most European nations.

However, their stories should also be told, as a reminder that hate and intolerance is not always targeting foreigners, ethnic or religious groups. In addition, viewing the unjustifiable suffering that these men and women had to endure, could once and for all silence critics of LGBT rights.

An estimated 100,000 gay men in Germany were arrested as homosexuals between 1933 and 1945, with 50,000 being sentenced. Of that number, around 15,000 of them ended up in concentration camps with a high mortality rate, of about 60%.

Homosexuals in concentration camps faced an unusual degree of cruelty, with experiments being conducted on them, in order to find a cure for their homosexuality or other medical diseases.

Others were forced in having sex with Jewish women, prostitutes or lesbian women, in order to force “normal” sexual desires onto them. Castration, boiling of their testicles and violence driven by the homophobia of the Nazi guards, were often reported.

Many were beaten by other inmates, while Nazi soldiers used to practice their shooting skills, by targeting the pink downward triangles sewn on their uniforms to distinguish them, ultimately killing them on sight. Homosexuals in concentration camps were considered the lowest of the low, classified as “asocials” and the true number of the victims remains unknown.

Again, many would not consider the stories of these men worthy of being told and brought into the greater public knowledge, since the gay community enjoys a great number of freedoms and degree of equality. However, we must never forget how easy it is for a society to slide backwards and what can happen to people of minority groups if we allow it.  

Germany prior the rise of the Nazis, had a vibrant gay community and in Berlin, gay and lesbian bars and clubs were abundant. Just because at one given time, a social group enjoys a certain set of freedoms, it does not mean that it can be taken for granted; sadly, that is why the commemoration of the Holocaust is still necessary today.

It is becoming evident that it should not be focused only on one ethnic group’s tragedy and the injustice inflicted upon them, rather view it as a lesson of what we can lose if we make the same mistakes again. It will not only be millions of lives, of many ethnic or religious minorities, but above all it will be our humanity and some of our most cherished values, that contribute to Europe’s uniqueness and success: our diversity, equality, tolerance and freedom.