We live in a consumerist society, in which our
aspirations are defined by a collective set of values. These values are often
either expressed or defined by our media, together with the numerous revenue
enhancing advertisement campaigns that they run.
That set of merits is ever changing according to the
social, political or economic changes that a country goes through its history. By
examining or studying a nation’s history of media, we can create an accurate profile
of a society or the values its people adopt and why.
Print publications are the oldest form of mass
media, with magazines playing a significant role. Their importance, form,
content, narrative and "commerciality" have drastically been altered through the
years, reflecting the changes taking place in our world.
As societies evolved, the role of men and women comprising
them also did. Women in particular have been the focus of most major reforms. Gaining
voting rights, or the right to work and own property, have been the most
significant landmarks in the evolution of our modern societies.
But according to many, that does not mean that women
are not being subjected to pressure to conform to a different set of ideals.
Their role this time is to be the driving force of the consumerist and
capitalist system, by turning them into bigger and better consumers.
This idea was expressed by an iconic feminist,
Gloria Steinem. She is a political activist, author, editor, and all-around
advocate for equality. Her ideas on the role of the media, especially those of
the women’s magazines, help us understand that the reason women’s magazines
look the way they look, is much less about readers than it is about
advertisers. (1)
Advertisers simply won’t place advertisements in
women’s magazines unless they write about their products. Other magazines may
be punished if they write negatively about some product area, but only women’s
magazines have to write positively or they don’t get advertisements in the
first place. (1)
A lot that women liked very much has gone out of
women’s magazines, like fiction and articles that just aren’t about products. Women’s
magazine editors have to sneak in a couple pages here and there about something
that isn’t a product. They are more like catalogs and should be given away
free, according to Steinem. (1)
Fashion in particular has generally been conceived
as a form of hegemonic oppression, exerting an obligation to conform that weighs
heavily on the female population. Fashion photographs generate enormous
dissatisfaction among women, because they create unrealistic expectations that
most women are unable to meet. (2)
Feminists argue that media images of women are
always directed at men and that women are encouraged to look at themselves and
other women, the way men do. This view of hegemonic femininity, as the
feminists believe, is incorporating masculine standards for female appearance
that emphasize physical attributes and sexuality. (3)
Young girls in particular, often express unhappiness
and dissatisfaction that the magazines portray an unrealistic female image,
especially in terms of body shape. (4) The magazines’ editors’ claim, is that
they cannot control the choices of photographers and art personnel. (5)
These artists allegedly perceive that a certain look
will create the best image aesthetically and will be well received by their
peers in the art world. So in addition to the advertisers who manufacture and
sell beauty products, there are others in the industry that influence the
images appearing in the media, especially photographers who want their pictures
to be beautiful. (5)
There is also a lack of editorial control based on
the direct and indirect influence of advertisers. The editors report that there
is a strong connection between the editorial pages of the magazines and the
advertisement ones, which are purchased by corporations to sell their products.
(6)
Ultimately, advertising is the vehicle through which
magazines and other media exist and they could not survive financially without
it. So when the magazines are dependent on pleasing the advertisers, they
struggle between the organization and the advertisers over how women should be
portrayed. (6)
In this way, modern women are bombarded with myriads
of advertisements that are promoted as role model for them to aspire. A role
model who requires a lot of money to spend on cosmetics, plastic surgery, hair
products, clothes and accessories, in order to fit in with the dominant image
of a woman in our era.
And so the struggle for women’s equality is
partially driven not just by human rights, but also by the need of our
capitalist system for more potential spenders. Ultimately women are perfect for
that role, as to maintain the image that the media are promoting requires an
ever increasing salary.
In fact the late modernity unshackles women from the
patriarchal past, when they had limited freedoms, rights, money and spending power.
In post industrial times the “feminization” of labor, holds young women in
high esteem as flexible, presentable and capable worker. Now the new feminine
subject is economically independent, liberated from the domestic sphere,
realizing the possibility of “having it all”. (7)
This commercialization of our gender, sexuality and
race is very important to the capitalist, consumerist societies that we live
in. We are all turned into buyers as well as billboards, for companies to
advertise their products with. We unwillingly become trade-able commodities, as
the population and its buying power or habits, are analyzed, categorized and
exploited by the markets.
References:
1) Gloria
Steinem. Women who made History. Miss Omni Media.
2) Gender,
Race and Class in Media. Gail Dines, Jean M. Humez. Sage Publications. 2003.
Gender and Hegemony in Fashion Magazines. Page 314.
3) Gender,
Race and Class in Media. Gail Dines, Jean M. Humez. Sage Publications. 2003.
Gender and Hegemony in Fashion Magazines. Page 315.
4) The
Gendered Society Reader. Michael S. Kimmel and Amy Aronson. Oxford University
Press. 2008. Contested Images of Femininity. Page 371.
5) The
Gendered Society Reader. Michael S. Kimmel and Amy Aronson. Oxford University
Press. 2008. Contested Images of Femininity. Page 372.
6) The
Gendered Society Reader. Michael S. Kimmel and Amy Aronson. Oxford University
Press. 2008. Contested Images of Femininity. Page 373.
7) Gender
Youth and Culture. Global Masculinities and Femininities. Anoop Nayak and Mary
Jane Kehily. Palgrave MacMillan Publishing. 2013. Gender relations in
Late-Modernity: Young Femininities and the New Girl Order.
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